
Are graphic designers amongst the least romantic folk on earth? It’s a question I began to ask myself when I tried (and got hardly anywhere) totting up the number of famous designs that had been inspired by a muse. The opening of the Courtauld exhibition showcasing Toulouse-Lautrec’s design relationship with the dancer Jane Avril prompted this train of thought.
It’s not easy to say who was the more celebrated member of this partnership when both were in their pomp. Her performances of the Quadrille at the Moulin Rouge made her famous, but it’s her trademark move with the left knee held high which Lautrec captured and which has kept her famous down the years. Lautrec had a close relationship with her, and painted her many times. Nothing rare in the arts, where beautiful women have inspired sonnets, symphonies and sculptures through the ages. So one might reasonably imagine plenty of design work fired by the curves of a favoured beauty, or the colour of her eyes. But apparently not.

The champagne coupe glass is supposedly modelled on the breast of Marie Antoinette, and the Emeco 1006 Navy Chair’s seat was supposedly moulded to Betty Grable’s bottom. Both these are probably myths – still, those WW2 American sailors must have enjoyed the thought on their long voyages. But these are woman as mould, not muse.

The original portrait of Betty Crocker was created from an amalgam of secretaries working at General Mills. Down the years, this might explain her evolving American everywoman look. The Columbia Pictures’ torch lady has changed quite a few times since the twenties. The latest (since 1992) is based on a portrait of ‘homemaker and mother of two’, Jenny Joseph. But these are women as models, not muses.

Rolls-Royce spirit of Ecstasy is a little more romantic: designed by Charles Robinson Sykes it is supposedly modelled on Eleanor Velasco Thornton, secretary to Lord Montagu of Beaulieu. Being a toff, Montagu kept their ‘upstairs, downstairs’ affair a secret. She died on a torpedoed ship in 1915, but was immortalised by Lord Montagu when he commissioned his friend Sykes to create a personal mascot for his Rolls-Royce Silver Ghost. She was originally portrayed pressing a finger to her lips as a nod to their hidden love. These were clearly times when, while marriage might have been out of the question, whimsically transforming a lost love into a hood ornament made perfect sense. Sykes created the general version later for Rolls Royce, and you can read the whole amusing tale here.

Coming up to date (but with little to show for it) we designers really do seem to be impervious to our smoldering passions. Nike and Flora might carry the names of goddesses, but not much of their spirit, visually. While the use of muses is common in fashion (all those Birkin bags and suchlike) it’s pretty hard to find brands playing this game. Trendy again Champagne Perrier-Jouët has, however, appointed a muse – Rie Rasmussen. She is a Danish actress, director writer and photographer. This is the modern muse though – more a face of the brand than an inspiration which we can see through the design. Nevertheless, she has done some nice water colours for the brand – a muse who actually makes things is a neat touch.

But still, this sense of inspiration from a particular person infusing a design sensibility seems quite rare. Can you think of any better examples? Perhaps there is good reason – while the very last poster Lautrec designed was for Jane Avril, she died in poverty, having given all the portraits he gave her away to various lovers along the way. So perhaps, for both muse and artist, the whole deal is not always what it’s cracked up to be…
